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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.